服饰(Dress)
尧乎尔
歌手:寒朝
专辑:《尧乎尔》

作词 : 寒朝
作曲 : 寒朝
“衣领高、帽有缨”,是裕固族服饰的一大特点,生活和文化传统形成了服饰上的审美标准,服饰的样式、花色、刺绣图案、花纹都按其民族习惯形成并代代相传。民间流传着“水的头是泉源,衣服的头是领子”,“帽无缨子不好看,衣无领子不能穿”的民歌。裕固族妇女的帽子,特点非常鲜明。裕固族西部地区的帽子是尖顶,帽沿后部卷起,用白色绵羊羔毛擀制而成的,宽沿上镶有一道黑边,内镶狗牙花边并用各色丝线滚边,帽顶腰部前面,有一块刺绣精致的图案;东部地区的大圆顶帽,形似礼帽,顶比礼帽细而高,是用芨芨草杆和羊毛线编织成坯,用红布缝帽里,用白布缝帽面,帽沿缝黑边,镶花边。裕固族女帽不论是西部还是东部,帽顶都用红线缝成帽缨。裕固族妇女的帽子,是姑娘和已婚妇女的区别标志,姑娘到了成婚年龄,举行出嫁戴头面仪式时才能戴帽子,表示已婚。
裕固族姑娘的服饰又是另一种风格。姑娘三岁剃头时,要把后脑勺的一片头发留下来,长发和串有珊瑚珠的丝线编成一条辫子,辫梢垂线穗被塞到背后的腰带里。两鬓的头发按年岁的增长,一岁编一个小辫,一直到出嫁。到了十三四岁时,前额要带“沙日达升戈”,即在一长条红布上,用各色珊瑚珠,缀成美丽的图案,做成一条三寸宽的长带,带的下沿用红色或红、白两色小珠子串成很多穗子,把带子从前额缠过系到脑后,穗子像珠帘一样齐眉垂在姑娘的前额。身穿类似大人的小袍褂,腰束彩色腰带,胸前戴“舜尕尔”,背后带“曲外代尕”,即用红布做成的两块长方形硬布牌,上缀有鱼骨做的圆块、各色珊瑚珠组成的图案,下边有红色线穗,并用各色珊瑚、玛瑙、玉石珠串成的珠链把两块布牌连起来,戴在脖子上,分别垂挂在胸前和背后。过去姑娘到了十七或十九岁,就到了成婚的年龄,在婚礼戴头仪式上,姑娘便换下少女的服装,开始穿上新婚礼服。
"High collar, cap have tassel," is an important characteristic of yugur clothing, life and cultural traditions formed clothing aesthetic standard, the style of dress, design and color, embroidery, decorative pattern is according to the national habit formation and handed down from generation to generation. "The head of the water is a fountain, the head of the garment is the collar," "the hat has no tassel, and no collar can not wear" folk songs. The hats of the yugur women are very distinctive. Hat is in the western area of yugur spire, brim at the back of the roll up, with white lambs wool rolling together, along with a black border on the wide, the dog bit edge and colorful silk thread flange, crown in front of the waist, a piece of embroidery exquisite pattern; The eastern region of the large dome cap, shaped like a hat, than hat and high, is to use achnatherum splendens rod and woven wool line billet, with a red cloth sewing hat, with a white cloth sewn cap, hat along the seam black border, lace. In both the west and the east, the cap is sewn with a red line. The hat of the yugu woman is the distinguishing mark of the girl and the married woman. The girl is married at the age of marriage, and she can wear a hat when she is married.
The costume of the yugu girl is another style. When the girl was three years old, she had to leave a piece of hair on the back of her head, her long hair and strings of coral beads in a braid. The hair on the temples grows at the age of a year, a little braid a year old, until marriage. Arrived at 13 or 14, forehead to bring "sand day of rose", that is, in a long red cloth with colorful coral beads, compose a beautiful pattern, make the strip, a three inch wide belt use red or red, white dichromatic beads strung into many ears, fasten belt from the forehead had bound to the brain, ears like a bead curtain qi mei hang over the girl's forehead. In a similar small robes of adult, color belt around his waist and chest wear "shun essential", take the "essential" outside, behind the box hard red cloth made of two pieces of rectangular, round piece of compose a fishbone do, colorful coral beads of red line below the spike, and colorful coral beads, agate, jade into beads put two pieces of cloth card together, worn around the neck, draped in the chest and back. In the past, when she was seventeen or nineteen years old, she reached the age of marriage. At the wedding ceremony, the girl changed her dress and began to put on her new wedding dress
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